Heavy on Fashion Talks to J. Joseph Pastrana - author of “Mirrorball - Reflections of Dance & Fashion”

“Mirrorball - Reflections of Dance & Fashion” by J. Joseph Pastrana transports readers through various eras of expression, performance, design and social upheavals as seen through the designers, choreographers, dancers, music stars and DJs who shaped history. The narrative is underpinned by the making of the ground-breaking dance-play “Contact” with first-person stories from legendary theater, film, music and fashion personalities including Susan Stroman, Adam Garcia, William Ivey Long and many others. Each chapter is brimming with revealing tales of artistic evolutions to acts of rebellion by icons like Nureyev and Graham, Saint Laurent and Halston, the Ballets Russes and Les Ballets Trocadero de Monte Carlo, Strauss and Madonna. 

Author of Mirrorball Reflections of Dance & Fashion

What inspired you to write a book about the intersection of dance and fashion?

While I've done my share of clubbing and attending ballet and Broadway performances, dance is definitely not in my wheelhouse. Still, I've maintained a fascination for it. There's just something mesmerizing about watching a professional dancer onstage or a brilliantly choreographed number and the movement of the human body. So it was probably inevitable that my work in fashion would inevitably find me considering the role dress and costume plays into performance.

How did you approach selecting the specific dancers and fashion designers to feature in the book? 

Even confined to only staying within that intersection of dance and fashion, it's really a vast subject matter. So from the start, I was faced with the challenge of really focusing on the dancers and designers and moments that either shaped or defined their eras or their arenas whether we're talking films, shows, nightlife, etc. And although I can say I was able to cover most, admittedly some areas and personalities were left out. Otherwise, the book would be a thousand pages long!

What was the most challenging aspect of researching and writing Mirrorball?

Anything involving research is a major challenge. People notoriously make unreliable witnesses. So you always approach a piece of information with a degree of skepticism. I have a self-imposed three-source rule in which I make sure to find three credible and separate sources to corroborate information. If, for example, two say the exact same thing using the exact same words, you know that one or both just got it from one source. So that doesn't count. Then some people can be careless about things they don't understand - like inherited titles. I can't tell you how many times I found someone writing about a certain Duke or Lord without realizing they were talking about the previous Duke or the heir etc. So you always have to cross-check, see if the dates line up, that sort of thing. But it's so very time-consuming.

How do you see the relationship between dance and fashion evolving in the future? 

Material dictates that direction when it comes to performance. As costume designers discover new materials, or figure out new ways to translate what is available into costumes that function properly for dancing we'll see exciting things keep showing up onstage. IRL, we're really at a new juncture where people are laying claim to fashion. At this point, we can all say this or that trend is hot. But people are no longer as beholden as they used to be in following those trends. To some degree, people have gained the confidence to wear whatever they want to without being made to feel that they may look different. Not entirely and not everyone mind you. People will always function as social packs, but whether they're wearing something inspired by the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, or 1980s, they will wear what is comfortable to them for dancing.

Which fashion designer in the book resonated with you the most and why? 

I've always had my personal favorites. But strictly as a professional, I'd have to say the designers included in the book who made a substantial impact on dance as performance are the costume designers. It's a more thought-out discipline when they craft for character, function, and staging. But for the average person going out to dance, definitely, the designers from the 1970s were the first to combine that sense of sensuality and elegance, and freedom that made dancing a joy - people like Halston and Calvin Klein, and Giorgio di Sant'Angelo. 

How do you believe dance and fashion influence each other? 

As I painstakingly argue in the book, the push and pull between those two disciplines have given birth to history-making moments. The way disco demanded gloss from fashion, ballet required functionality. And vice versa when fashion provided dance with flash, color, and flow. The right combination of dance and fashion creates images that have become indelible in our collective memories.

Are there particular dance styles or fashion eras that you believe have had the most significant impact on the other? 

Ballet is one and all you have to do is attend a performance to marvel at how deeply entrenched its looks are to our understanding of it - you see someone in a flared tutu and pointe shoes and you immediately understand what you're seeing and it's been that way forever. Conversely, disco was such an influence on how designers of that era brought sex and glamour in perfect lockstep to the music. So much so that there is no looking at 1970s fashions without hearing a disco soundtrack in your head.

How do you think social media and technology have changed the relationship between dance and fashion? 

In both dance and fashion - I'd say the biggest - and this can be seen as a positive or a negative is the removal of context. Now we have such unfettered access to seeing ALL the looks of previous eras on the internet or Instagram that people - mostly younger people - no longer have the benefit of understanding what they're seeing - that these are products of socio-cultural influences in a given time period. On the plus side, like I said, people can discover more and feel empowered to try different kinds of dancing and fashions as they see fit. 

What do you hope readers will take away from Mirrorball? 

The first thing I hope for is that they enjoy reading it. The next is that they learn the history of those two art forms and how they overlapped to result in some of the most important aspects of our shared histories. And finally, I am hoping they gain a better understanding and appreciation of these amazing, creative, and brilliant individuals who still affect their lives whether they're aware of it or not.

How has writing this book changed your perspective on dance and fashion?

 

Much of it I already knew honestly, I just had to support the stories with substantiated research. Still, I must admit that when you're going through the journey that the book takes you, it is so awe-inspiring how much dance and fashion have defined eras and nations, and everyday lives.

Are there any specific projects or collaborations related to dance and fashion that you're excited about in the future? 

Right now, Dutch designer Iris van Herpen is probably doing the most remarkable work in both those fields. Inspired by nature and dance, her designs are breathtakingly sculptural and dynamic. She is also of this generation who understands the importance of sustainability and a respect for the environment.

What advice would you give to aspiring authors? 

Read, read, read. Then write, write, write. Those are the only ways to truly hone your craft. Writing isn't just throwing up on the page what you're thinking. Like any creative effort, it's important to know how to organize and shape, and edit the story you're telling so the progression 'feels' logical and natural. AND do recognize where the story is telling you to go - because it will tell you.

What do you believe is the most important quality for a successful author?

I guess that would depend on your definition of success, really, don't you think? Some may equate it with bestsellers - in which case then the author has to be able to tap into the universal aspects of the human condition. Those truly great authors - which I will never be, incidentally - are gifted with a kind of madness that genius requires. I'm a bit too rational, I'm afraid. Haha. So for my own metric of success, it's just the opportunity to tell this slice of history that I believe is important to preserve. It's my humble contribution to these art forms - fashion that I've had the good fortune of being a part of - and dance which I visited for a little while.

How did you balance your role as a writer with your knowledge of the fashion and dance industries?

 

When writing I make it a strict point to try to be objective. I realize we inevitably let our personal inclinations and proclivities color what we create but I tried to be mindful of separating my own preferences. Not to say I succeeded entirely, but there are definitely moments in the book that were informed by my perspective.

What was your writing process like? Did you have a specific routine or approach? 

If there was, it was probably just doing the bulk of it on the overnight hours. I usually wrote like crazy from around 3 am to around 7ish when I'd take a break and go to the gym. Because there are moments when no matter how much you try your brain will refuse to go on. So when I get 'stuck' I know it's best to step away. When I return I find I have a better clarity on what's in front of me.

How do you see the role of the fashion and dance industries in shaping culture? 

I think they both play very important roles - visually, physically, emotionally, and mentally.  The industries behind them will continue to reflect society back to us. But on a purely personal level, they tie together various aspects of our humanity and by extension how we continue to evolve culturally and socially.

I would like to thank J. Joseph Pastrana for this interview. This was originally was supposed to be a podcast episode but due to technical difficulties on my end, Joseph agreed to an written interview. Thank you so much!  

Check out “Mirrorball - Reflections of Dance & Fashion” (ISBN 979-8-218-44776-2) - List Price $32.99 - is a 10th Anniversary release from New York literary imprint Thane & Prose available in fine bookstores worldwide and online retailers including Barnes & Noble and Amazon.